Lecture on the book Viheltäen lumisateessa / Silbando bajo la nieve

On August 31, the book Whistling Under the Snow (ed. Adrián Soto, 2023) was presented at the main public library of Helsinki, Oodi. The 288-page book and two large blocks of photographs, is a narrative exercise between recent history and journalism.

The rich testimonies of the protagonists also represent a rescue of memory. The book offers a background to the events of 1973, in both Chile and Finland. During a peak period of the Cold War, Finland opened its doors, for the first time in its history, to a small number of refugees from Chile. Now, half a century later, these refugees tell their personal story that is also collective.

 

Lanzamiento libro Silbando bajo la nieve al micrófono el editor Adrián Soto.
Photo © Luis Bustamante.

The book is bilingual, Finnish and Spanish and its name in Finnish is Viheltäen lumisateessa and Spanish is Silbando bajo la nieve. 

The following text is the presentation made by the editor, Adrián Soto, before the members of the Association of Spanish Teachers of Finland, in Helsinki, December 2, 2023

Many essayists and columnists advise us that we should go to the Greek classics to seek answers to the ills of modern society. I would like to start there. The first playwright of Classical Greece, Aeschylus, in the 5th century BC, upon being expelled from Athens, asked the question:
Can an strange land become our homeland?
The answer from us, Chilean refugees who arrived in Finland in the seventies, is Yes, it is possible, but the process is long and difficult.

The tragic events in Chile in September 1973 led the Finnish government at the time, headed by Prime Minister Kalevi Sorsa, to accept one hundred refugees from Chile. Such a decision had significant importance in the recent history of Finland. From that moment on, policies towards refugees and later also immigration policies began to be forged and regulated.

Two years ago I received the task of editing the book about the Chilean exile in Finland. My first task was to carry out a search of secondary sources, that is, published literature. I must say that in addition to a couple of degree theses there are two publications that indirectly deal with the topic: The book Kuoleman Lista by Professor Heikki Hiilamo published in 2010 which deals with the work of the diplomat Tapani Brotherus in Chile after the military coup, and in which The television series Invisible Heroes is based, which premiered in April 2019.
In 2021, journalist Pirjo Houni published Salatu diplomattiaa, which is a biography of Tapani Brotherus and his long diplomatic career.

Nor have the ethnic groups settled in Finland published much, with the exception of the book Suomen tataarit (the Tatars of Finland), which recounts the 150 years since the arrival of this group to Finland, constituting the first Islamic community in the country. The book is the work of researcher Antero Leitzinger.
I told my compatriots that we should not wait 150 years to tell our story. What 50 years is enough for us!

Works on several archives 

After searching for secondary sources I went to the primary sources. For that, I did research work in the Archives of the Ministry of Foreign Relations, in the archive of the Red Cross and in the Archive of Kalevi Sorsa. I also reviewed the newspaper archive of the time. From these investigations, article 2 of the book was born entitled: This is how the decision to receive refugees from Chile was made.

Finland knocked on many European doors, as it was organizing the great conference on Security and Cooperation (Etyk) that was finally held in 1975. In all European capitals the events in Chile had had a great impact. On October 23, 1973, Antti Lassila, division head of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, wrote a memorandum in which he proposed to the government to receive 30-40 refugees from Chile. In that memorandum Lassila stressed that a week earlier Switzerland had decided to receive 200 refugees from Chile. Switzerland was always an exception in Europe for not receiving refugees. On October 24, the Government of Kalevi Sorsa made the decision to receive one hundred refugees from Chile.

In Finland, to manage the arrival of refugees, two Special Commissions (Pakolaiskomissiot) were formed, the first was led by the Finnish Red Cross and the second by the Ministry of Labor.

The initial number of one hundred refugees was increased to 150 in 1976. The following year in 1977, Chile’s refugee program ended, whose number had increased by 182. By that same time, Sweden had received 2,648 refugees and France 2,021. The total cost of this operation to the Finnish public treasury was 2.5 million markaa, or about 400,000 euros.

In the seventies and eighties, a handful of Chileans arrived and, with the pain of broken dreams, began to forge new lives in these Nordic lands.
As exiles we have had to compose our lives through memory. Many of us have lived outside of real time, like living ghosts, with a suitcase ready for our return. Today the first refugees are all older people, so soon we will be gone. That is why we consider rescuing our memory.
But the exercise of rescuing memory is not easy. The exact time on calendars does not always agree with memory. Furthermore, the time of the exile clock has its own rhythm and its hands do not always move forward. It is an eternal battle against mirages.

We belong to a generation that dreamed of social reforms, but in response we received lead and savage repression. This included the loss of the country where our cultural roots were. Added to that was the loss of the utopia where our ideals were placed. All these elements are part of a bitter cocktail that Chilean refugees have had to drink from. These reflections can be found on page 87 of the book.

The book is divided into three well-defined parts, the first describes the background of the repressive policies in Chile and the dilemma of Finland’s decision to welcome refugees. In a second part, the life course of four refugees is described, two women and two men, who managed to develop their lives in very different work activities. in a cultural environment very different from what Chile could offer them.
In a third part is the cultural contribution of Chileans to the cultural media of Finland. We have the work of renowned artists, the 30 years of work of the Gabriela Mistral Children’s Club and the work of a good number of musicians. We can say that Latin American music also arrived with us, and that today, it is already part of the musical landscape of Finland.

The entire theme of the book is, from a graphic point of view, well documented. It contains two large blocks of photographs, one black and white for the period of the seventies and eighties; and a block of color photographs to document more recent times. Let me tell you that: being a bilingual book, Spanish-Finnish, it is, for you, an ideal work tool. The book contains 288 pages of which 60% are in Spanish and 40% in Finnish.

The book is well documented with photographs

The Pinochet dictatorship in Chile was tragically long-lived and installed a draconian economic model, an extreme neoliberalism, which still persists today, after 30 years of democratic regimes. The levels of inequality in Chile are simply scandalous. 1% of the population receives 29% of the national wealth annually.

Both cover of the book, designed by Kati Vera

Of the 182 Chileans who arrived as refugees, about 50 remained in Finland. A good number returned to Chile at the end of the dictatorship. In those 17 years of dictatorship, other refugees had formed Finnish families and return was no longer a simple thing. Later, as the years go by, the refugees also age. At 55 or 60 years old it is very difficult to start a new life in a country like Chile where 65% of the population is under 35 years old. As the years went by, the reality of the country also became blurred.

The motto or nickname of Whistling Under the Snow is a narrative exercise between recent history and journalism. At the time of our arrival, Finland was undergoing notable structural changes: It must be said that Finland in the seventies was politically and culturally speaking very different from the Finland we have today. This topic is well elaborated from page 42 onward.

The solidarity movement with Chile was transversal where all the living forces of society participated. And it lasted a whole decade. Afterwards, an attempt was made to emulate it, without results. The movement marked an entire generation of Finns and Chileans. The newspaper archive is very rich in testimonies.

The first months of our stay in Finland were marked by obvious uncertainty. The country was not prepared to receive us, and most of us had no real idea of where we were. The officials of the Red Cross and the Ministry of Labor improvised one day and the next as well. At the end of its activities in 1977, the second Special Commission became self-critical and regretted not having attended to the psychological and emotional side of the Chilean refugees. Several of the refugees arrived directly from the torture centers.

Another of the Commission’s recommendations was to teach mother tongue to school-age children. With the education of their native language, the child strengthens their self-esteem and will be better prepared for school life. This recommendation reached Parliament and a law was legislated in 1979, but at the beginning there were no Spanish teachers. From that moment on, the Gabriela Mistral Children’s Club was born to strengthen children’s Spanish and instruct them in Latin American culture. See page 150.

In 1972 Finland legislated a new and successful school law. 21 refugee children joined the classrooms. All the children who remained in Finland successfully completed the basic cycles of Finnish school. These boys and girls are currently 55-60 years old and are integrated into Finnish society. See page 37.

The Finnish authorities obtained valuable experiences with the Chilean refugees that could soon be put into practice with the arrival of the Vietnamese refugees at the end of the seventies. These teachings were also useful with the arrival of Somali refugees after the fall of the Soviet Union and of Kosovo Albanians in 1992, who arrived through international commitments.

Integration policies had to wait a long time. The first comprehensive law (kotouttamislaki) was only enacted in 1999, 25 years after our arrival. And the first law instructing municipalities to manage the arrival of foreigners was enacted in 1995 (kotikuntalakia 201/1994) twenty years after our arrival.

A trip to the end of the world

Glacier Italia in the Beagle Channel.
The glacier Italia is impressive in an amazing setting.

Through the Glaciers’ boulevard in the Beagle Channel

Text and pics Adrián Soto

(Huom! Englanninkielisen tekstin jälkeen on suomenkielinen versio, joka on julkaistui www.matkailutoimittajienkilta.com)

The ferry Yaghan departures from Punta Arenas harbour in northern shores of the Strait of Magellan. Ahead we have 32 hours of unforgettable navigation. The 66 meters long and 15 meters wide ferry took us to the labyrinthine islands and fjords before reaching Puerto Williams South America’s southern most town.

The Yaghan Ferry itinerary is 32 hour of seiling.

The distance of the sealing was 558 kilometres. Puerto Williams is a small Chilean town administrative center of the Cap Horn municipality. During the first hours of seiling, we past closely to Dawson island, where the Pinochet’s dictatorship established an infamous concentration camp. Before arriving to the islands labyrinth we left to starboard the Saint Isidro lighthouse which marks the end of the mainland continent.

We sailed through the Cockburn channel before arriving to the Ballenero Channel, by this time our ferry was joined by a majestic Albatross. At the shores we could see a group of whales. Were sailing in February, in the austral Summer, but the temperature was only 2 or 3 degree Celsius.

After sailing through a very narrow strait, the Captain of Yaghan informed us that we have entered in the mythical Beagle Channel.

A 240 kilometres long waterway

The Channel is 240 kilometres long and is a waterway from Atlantic Ocean into Pacific Ocean. The Strait separates the Tierra del Fuego from minor islands. The Eastern part of the strait serves as border line between Argentina and Chile.

Charles Darwin was an English naturalist, geologist and biologist. He is considered father of of the theory of biological evolution by natural selection. He sailed these waters on board of HMS Beagle between 1826 and 1830. Thereafter the name of this extraordinary waterway.

The Holland glacier

In the Western side of the channel, its Northern shores are sharp, there stands the Darwin Mountains that reach 1800 meters high, and their top is covered by ice fields. Six rivers of ice come down into the Channel forming amazing glaciers.

The glaciers and name after European expeditions that explored them some 150 years ago. The most impressive of themis Glacier Italia. Also the Holland Glacier is magnificent. The Spain glacier shows marks of the climate changes.

The Spain glacier has lost 1/3 of its ice.

The glaciers flow majestically toward the channel, Some of them goes down to the waterfront, some stop just short from the ice fields. From the ferry deck we keep gazing at the unmatched beauty of the wild and remote scenery.

Maailmanlopun tiellä: Valaita, jäätiköitä

Autolautta Yaghan lähtee kerran viikossa Punta Arenasin satamasta, myyttisestä Magalhãesinsalmesta kohti Puerto Williamsia, joka on Kap Hornin kunnan hallintokeskus. Matka eteläisen Tyynenmeren kanavalabyrinttien kautta kestää 32 tuntia. Yaghan on 70 metriä pitkä ja 16 metriä leveä. Se voi kuljettaa 200 matkustajaa ja 70 henkilöautoa. Yaghanin kanssa samaan aikaan satamasta lähtee myös Bahamalle rekisteröity luksusristeilyalus Crystal Serenity.

The luxury ship Cristal Serenity sailed in the front of us.

Elämme eteläisen pallonpuoliskon kesäaikaa. Silti lähdön hetkellä on koleaa ja tihuttaa vettä. Tulimaan siluetti salmen toisella puolella näkyy kehnosti. Kolmen tunnin seilaamisen jälkeen ohitamme Etelä-Amerikan eteläisimmän maamerkin San Isidron majakan, ja salmen vastakkaisella puolella kohoavat Dawsonin saaren korkeat kukkulat. Saarella on traaginen menneisyys. Sata vuotta sitten italialainen veljeskunta internoi täällä Tulimaan alkuperäiskansan, Seik´namien, viimeiset edustajat. Törmäys läntisen sivilisaation kanssa oli intiaaneille kohtalokas. Myöhemmin diktaattori Augusto Pinochet avasi saarella keskitysleirin oppositiojohtajille.

Aamun koitteessa seilaamme Lohduttomuuden lahdelle (Bahía Desolución), ja laiva keikkuu jonkin verran, koska olemme lähes avomerellä. Huomaan, että edessämme seilaa Crystal Serenity. Meillä on vielä muutakin matkaseuraa. Albatrossien upea lento on todella vaikuttavaa. Lämpötila on pudonnut +8 asteeseen, ja laivan kokka on kohti Valaanpyytäjien kanavaa (Canal Ballenero). Kun tulemme kanavan suuhun, häiritsemme patagonianmerileijonia, jotka touhuavat aamuleikeissään.

Down at the Beagle Channel.

Albatrossin kilpailijaksi täällä on noussut keisarimerimetso. Merellä on kova kuhina, kun tonina– eli chilendelfiiniparvi ui laivan lähelle. Delfiini on noin puolitoista metriä pitkä, ja se seuraa usein laivoja. Kello 14 Yaghan seilaa myyttiseen Beaglen kanavaan. Kapea ja syvä kanava jakaa Tulimaan ja Kap Hornin saariston leveyssuunnassa kahtia. Tulimaan puolella kohoava 2 500 metriä korkea Darwinin vuoristo on Andien eteläisin osa. Ensimmäiset jäätiköt näkyvät jo, ja lämpötila on +3 astetta.

Olemme seilanneet pari tuntia pitkin Beaglen kanavaa, kun laivan miehistö huutaa:

− Valaita oikealla!

Näen vain vesisuihkuja, joita valaat puhaltavat pintaan noustessaan. Nyt täytyy olla tarkkana. Puolen tunnin päästä valaat ovat kanavan vasemmalla puolella. Nyt näen ne todella hyvin, ja sitten yksi niistä vilauttaa nopeasti komeaa pyrstöään. Olemme miekkavalasparven (Orcinus orca) lähellä.

The author with the Italia Glacier in the background.

Beaglen kanavaa kutsutaan myös jäätiköiden bulevardiksi. Pian selviää miksi. Ensin tulee vastaan vuorilta hitaasti valuva valtava Roncaglin (España) jäätikkö ja sen jälkeen vielä suurempi Italian sekä Hollannin jäätikkö.

− Kun kävin täällä ensimmäisen kerran 1982, Roncagli ulottui vielä kanavan rantaan asti. Nyt se on vetäytynyt noin 200 metriä. Täällä näkee, että ilmastonmuutos on todellinen, sanoo kokenut merimies Hugo Ramirez.

Jäätiköiden bulevari

Näen vain vesisuihkuja, joita valaat puhaltavat pintaan noustessaan. Nyt täytyy olla tarkkana. Puolen tunnin päästä valaat ovat kanavan vasemmalla puolella. Nyt näen ne todella hyvin, ja sitten yksi niistä vilauttaa nopeasti komeaa pyrstöään. Olemme miekkavalasparven (Orcinus orca) lähellä.

Puerto Williams with the Catholic church in the center of the pic.

Pimeys tulee 21.30. Kanavan pohjoispuolella näkyvät jo Ushuaian kaupungin valot. Se on Argentiinan Tulimaan pääkaupunki ja laivamme seuralaisen, Crystal Serenityn, seuraava satama. Me jatkamme matkaa vielä neljä tuntia. Tulemme Puerto Williamsiin noin kahden aikaan yöllä. Aamulla kaupungissa sataa vettä ja lähellä olevilla kukkuloilla lunta. Pieni ja nuori kaupunki, 2 500 asukasta. Puolet väestöstä työskentelee kuningasrapujen pyynnin parissa, ja toinen puoli saa elantonsa matkailusta ja Chilen laivaston palveluksessa. Täältä lähtevät Kap Hornin seikkailijat.

The beagle channel: Map: https://commons.wikimedia.org

Torres del Paine: One of the world´ s most fascinating places

Torres del Paine view from Laguna Amarga. Photo © Adrián Soto

Text, Pictures and video Adrián Soto

In the deep south of South America, in the large and enigmatic Patagonia, nature has created one amazing place, the Paine Cordillera. The center piece of this mountain range is formed by three splendid granite peaks that rise up to 3000 meters above the sea level. These granite peaks, towers, give the name to the crown jewel park of Chile, The Torres del Paine National Park.
The park is 242.000 hectares large and it was established in 1959. It is located 112 kilometers North of Puerto Natales and 312 kilometers North of Punta Arenas. It is crossed by several rivers and has five lakes, water falls. These waterways emerge from four glaciers that make their way into the park and make it possible to grow flora and fauna. There is visible pumas, guanacos, rheas, South American deer, black-necked swans and condors. The park was listed as a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978.

Video © Adrián Soto

The park has been elected as the fifth most beautiful place in the world in 2013 in a special issue of National Geographic. No wonder that it has become one of the most popular hiking destinations of South America.  There are a plenty of facilities for trekking. There are well-marked trails and well equipped mountain shelters. Regular buses take trekkers from Puerto Natales to the heart of the park. The traveler can hike for a few hours and up to one week, in one of the most breathtaking landscape of the world.
An extensive reportage was published in the website of the Finnish Guild of Travel Writers. Below you find text in Finnish. The above text contains abstracts.

The Paine mountain range view from the Pehoé lake. Photo © Adrián Soto

Patagonian historiassa romantiikka on kaukana

Kun eurooppalaiset saapuivat näille kaukaisille seuduille, he olivat todella hämmästyneitä. Paikannimet kertovat hyvin heidän mielentiloistaan: Turhalahti, Nälkäsatama, Viimeisen Toivon vuono, Lohduttomuuden saari, Kärsimyksen käytävä. Portugalilainen löytöretkeilijä Fernão de Magalhães löysi jalanjälkiä, jotka olivat kaksi kertaa suuremmat kuin Iberian niemimaan miehen omat jäljet. Hän nimesi paikalliset asukkaat isojalkaisiksi eli Patagoneiksi. Sen jälkeen alue pysyi suhteellisen rauhallisena, ja intiaanit, Tehuelchesit, jatkoivat elämäänsä ikivanhojen perinteidensä mukaan.
Argentiina ja Chile jakavat Patagonian, joka on tasankojen, laaksojen ja vuorten peittämä alue Atlantin ja Tyynenmeren välillä. Alueen pinta-ala on noin miljoona neliökilometriä, eli kolme kertaa Suomen kokoinen. Täällä tuuli on armoton ja kondori on ilman herra. Kasvillisuus on niukkaa. Kun 1800-luvun alussa teollinen vallankumous lähti Euroopassa koville kierroksille, Patagoniassakin alkoi tapahtua.
Falklandin saarelta Patagoniaan tuodut lampaat vaativat paljon ruohoa ja siten isoja maatiloja. Käsittämättömästi Argentiinan ja Chilen valtiot lahjoittivat miljoonia ja miljoonia hehtaareja espanjalaiselle, saksalaisille, englantilaiselle ja ranskalaiselle yrittäjille, jotka alkoivat hävittää guanakoa, Tehuelche-intiaanien tärkeintä saaliseläintä. Myöhemmin intiaaneja metsästettiin maanomistajien toimesta. Kaikki tämä tapahtui vain sata vuotta sitten. Suurmaanomistajien kerhoon mahtui kourallinen miehiä.
Patagoniassa voi vielä nähdä tuhansia lampaita piikkilankojen takana. Se tarkoittaa, että vaikka villa- ja lihabisnes on nähnyt parempiakin aikoja, se on edelleen kannattavaa puuhaa. 1970-luvulla toimittaja ja kirjailija Bruce Chatwin julkaisi teoksen Patagonia, Patagonia, joka nousi suureen suosioon. Chatwin oli alueella puoli vuotta ja haastatteli ihmisiä, jotka olivat paenneet kotimaastaan, mutta ei juuri antanut tilaa alueella tapahtuneille julmuuksille.
Eteläisimmän Chilen tunnetuin nähtävyys on kansallispuisto Torres del Paine. Vuonna 1959 perustettu puisto on kooltaan 120 242 hehtaaria. Alueen tunnus on kolme graniittitornia, joka nousevat 3000 metriä korkeiden vuorten keskeltä. Puistossa on puoli tusinaa järveä, useita jokia ja vesiputouksia. Suurin osa vesistä on peräisin neljästä jäätiköstä, jotka ulottuvat puiston asti.
1978 Unesco julisti Torres del Painen maailman biosfäärin suojelukohteeksi. Täällä elävät rauhassa guanakot, kondorikotkat, nandut ja puumat. Puisto sijaitsee 120 kilometrin päässä Puerto Natalesista, joka on luonnollinen tukikohta alueella vieraileville.
Upeasta puistosta on tullut kasainvälinen patikointiparatiisi. Vuosittain noin 250 000 ihmistä saapuu nauttimaan paikallisen luonnon kauneudesta. Patikointireittejä on joka lähtöön, kestoltaan muutamasta tunnista kokonaiseen viikkoon.

The elegant guanaco were hunted to almost extinction by the large land owners. Photo © Adrián Soto

South America´s ostrich, Rhea also lives in the park. Photo © Adrián Soto

The black-necked swans are common visitors in the park. Photo © Adrián Soto

The Paine mountain range viewed from the Toro Lake at sun set. Photo© Adrián Soto

Pablo Neruda still looks toward the Sea

 

Pics and text Adrián Soto

Neruda and his wife Matilde ramains in the garden of Isla Negra. © A.Soto
Neruda and his wife Matilde ramains in the garden of Isla Negra. © A.Soto

Pablo Neruda was 34 years old in 1938, when he returned to Chile from the Spanish civil war. Previously he had been working in Asia as a diplomat. At that time his names was already well known in literary circles. In cost of Central Chile, he saw and immediately fell in love, with a place on which huge black rocks stands on the shore of seaside beaten by the tireless Pacific Ocean´s waves.
Because of the rocks, he named the place is Isla Negra, Black Island. With the help of local carpenters Neruda started to build his house. In that house he composed some of his major works like “The Heights of Machu Pichu” and “The Captain’s Verses”
Sometime later Neruda wrote: “For me the sea is cleaner than the land. For that reason I decided to live in my home country in the coast, on Isla Negra, next to the foam of the great waves”. The house was never built ready. With time, new rooms and wings where added, so it became a sort of wooden labyrinth, with huge windows facing the sea.

The house became a pilgrim destination for Latin American intellectuals. Many memorable literary parties took place there. Neruda was with his third wife, Matilde Urrutia in 1971,when the news came from Stockholm that the Swedish Academy had granted him the Nobel Prize for Literature. Later on the poet was serving as ambassador of Chile in Paris when he was diagnosed cancer. He died in Santiago on September 1973, only two weeks after a bloody military coup overthrew his friend Salvador Allende from the country´s Presidency.
The house was closed down during the long period of military dictatorship. When democracy came back to Chile in 1989, the Pablo Neruda foundation turned the house into a museum. The human remains of Neruda and his wife were brought to Isla Negra and buried in the garden looking out to the sea.
Neruda foundation: www.neruda.cl
In 2013, following allegations that Neruda death was caused by poison, his human remains were exhumed. The same year in November, a team of 15 international forensic team stated that not chemical substances were found a cause of Neruda´s death.
Isla Negra is located some 120 Kms from the Capital city, Santiago. The road is good and a few steps from the Home-Museum there is a lovely lodging place but a little costly: Hosteria Candela. Nearby there are a number of more economic B&Bs.

The ships bells always tolled when the poet arrived home. © A.Soto
The ships bells always tolled when the poet arrived home. © A.Soto

The ex-libri fish is the symbol of Neruda. © A.Soto
The ex-libri fish is the symbol of Nerudian universe. © A.Soto

Nerudo wrote some of its major work in Isla Negra. © A.Soto
Neruda wrote some of his major works in Isla Negra. © A.Soto

The Enchanted Mountain

The header picture is from Osorno, a volcano in South Chile. This amazing natural giant erupted hundred years ago. For the native people it was the end of the world. They left the valley, but not before sacrificing the virgin daughter of the local ruler. The jungle took over the valley. In 1860, the Chilean government decided to recruit colonialists from war-devastated Central Europe to bring new life to the valley.Today the top of the valley by Osorno is a pleasant place of beauty, silence and wooden houses. Multiculturalism was established here long ago. The gastronomy is magnificent, a successful marriage between local and European cuisine, with rich seafood from the nearby cold waters of the Pacific Ocean.

If you are observant, the volcano will speak to you. In a sunny day, its mighty white dress changes tone from early morning to sunset. At its feet lies Llanquihue, a lake of unparalleled beauty. On winter nights when the winds blow down from the mountains, a frightening howl comes from the centre of the lake. According to local tradition, it is the crying soul of the Indian princess.

Lumoava vuori

Sivun yläpalkin kuva on Osornon tulivuorista Etelä-Chilessä. Tämä hämmästyttävä luonnon jättiläinen heräsi vihaisesti satoja vuosia sitten. Paikallisille ihmisille se oli maailmanloppu. He pakenivat laaksosta, mutta ennen sitä he uhrasivat jättiläiselle päällikkönsä neitsyttyttären. Viidakko otti laakson haltuunsa. Vuonna 1860 Chilen hallitus päätti värvätä siirtolaisia sodan tuhoamasta Keski-Euroopasta, jotta nämä voisivat tuoda laaksoon uutta elämää. Nyt Osornon vartioima laakso on kauneuden ja hiljaisuuden keidas. Monikulttuurisuus sai täällä alkunsa jo kauan sitten. Seudun gastronomia on upea, sitä rikastaa läheisen Tyynenvaltameren kalat ja meriäyriäiset. Eurooppalainen ja paikallinen keittiö ovat solmineet onnistuneen liiton.

Jos matkailija on tarkkana, hän voi kuulla tulivuoren puhuvan. Aurinkoisena päivänä sen mahtava valkoinen viitta vaihtaa sävyä aamusta iltaan. Tulivuoren juurella loistaa käsittämättömän sininen Llanquihue-järvi. Kylminä talviöinä, kun tuuli ulvoo vuoristossa, järveltä voi kuulla pelottavaa ääntä. Paikalliset asukkaat uskovat, että ääni kuuluu intiaaniprinsessan sielulle, jotka itkee.

The Llanquihue lake and the Osorno from the twon of Puerto Varas
The Llanquihue lake and the Osorno from the town of Puerto Varas

© A.Soto

The Osorno Volcano from the Southern slope
The Osorno Volcano from the Southern slope

© A.Soto